Wildlife Safari

Setting off this morning you take the train south to the town of Sawai Madhopur, close to Ranthambore National Park (5hrs). Travelling through the state of Rajasthan you quickly become aware that this is one of India’s most colourful regions: most notable are the elegant women carrying terracotta pots of water from the village well, dressed in saris in a myriad of colours, their bangles tinkling as they walk. They and their families are the proud descendants of the heroic Rajputs who once ruled the state. Hotel - 2 nights (BLD)

Take the morning train to Bharatpur. Here you may have the option of visiting the bird park (additional charge) if the rains have been good during the year. You'll head out on rickshaws to spot owls, storks and herons amongst numerous others, before continuing by road to Fatehpur Sikri. Along this road are the remains of the kos minars. These wayside markers, which survive only as crumbled towers, point the way to the great city of Fatehpur Sikri. The city is built of rich red sandstone and was temporarily Akbar the Great’s capital. Akbar built this ‘City of Victory’ as a tribute to a sage who correctly foretold the birth of his three sons. Just 15 short years after building the new capital and removing his court, Akbar was forced to abandon it because the water supply deteriorated. Today its rose-coloured walls provide the visitor with an unforgettable impression of the majesty of a 16th century royal court. You continue to the city of Agra, which straddles the holy Yamuna River and remains one of South Asia’s greatest Moghul cities. Hotel - 2 nights (B)

Moving on, you take to the train again and head deeper into central India. Travelling on an Indian train is an experience in itself. Almost everything you need is carried on the trains; hawkers will ply their trades selling chai (tea), snacks, books and many other things; and local people will be happy to ask you many questions about your lifestyle. On reaching Jhansi you drive for around four hours through India's ‘Middle Land’, the literal meaning of ‘Madhya Pradesh’, the state you now pass through. Almost a third of India's forests are located here amongst the hills - consisting of teak, sal, hardwickia, Indian ebony and rosewood. You can expect to arrive in Khajuraho by mid afternoon/early evening (depending upon train schedules).

It was in these forests that Khajuraho’s erotic temples were rediscovered in the 19th century - forests which no doubt saved them from destruction, hidden as they were for hundreds of years. To the Victorians of the 1830s, the erotic sculptures, which feature amongst the other carvings of daily life decorating these beautiful temples, were both shocking and fascinating. The external walls of the 22 temples, which have survived the ravages of time, are covered with an unrivalled number of exquisite carvings. The 10th century Chandela artisans were masters of their craft, creating cool interiors to provide a welcome retreat from the hot tropical sun.

This evening you’ll take a tour of the magnificent “western” group of temples. The incredible skill of the artisans cannot be emphasised enough, with friezes as little as 10 cm wide, crammed with the most amazing naturalistic detail, such as ornaments, hairstyles, jewellery and clothing. Hotel – 1 night (B)

Bandhavgarh became the hunting ground for the Rewa kings and, in 1968, the present maharaja donated the area to the state as parkland. The core zone of the park is home to a wide variety of animal and birdlife. The flat grassy maidans provide good feeding ground for the chital who co-exist quite happily with fellow ruminants such as the nilgai and sambar. The langur monkey is often found nearby. Amongst the other animals that can be seen are muntjac, chinkara, barking deer, wild pigs and porcupine. Wild dogs have recently increased in population, and hyena, foxes and jackals appear occasionally in the open countryside. It is primarily the tiger that you are hoping to find, and with its high population density, Bandhavgarh has a remarkable success rate for sightings. Along with this most regal of cats, leopard, jungle and wild cat are occasionally sighted. You have plenty of time to search out and photograph these animals during your stay as you have two full days to spend in and around the park. Rising very early in the morning you set out by 4WD on the first of six game drives. Hoping to spot the larger cats, you’ll track their pugmarks and listen carefully for any alarm calls. Even if you are unlucky this time, after ‘resting like the animals’ during the heat of the day, you take to the vehicles and go tracking again.

Both inside and outside the park, there is an abundance of birdlife. The fruit and flowering trees attract a large variety such as the green pigeon, crested serpent eagle, hornbills, drongoes, fly- catchers, barbets, bee-eaters and parakeets, to name but a few. During your stay there may be an opportunity to take a ride by elephant (optional, additional charge) to view game.

Within the park there are also some interesting cave shrines with Brahmin inscriptions from the 1st century BC. A hilltop fort dominates the park and is said to date back to the time of the Ramayana. The small village of Tala just outside the park has changed little for centuries. You can walk around or enjoy a cup of chai (tea) with the locals. You may also have the opportunity to visit the local school and meet the children. Hotel - 2 nights (Bx2,Lx2,Dx2)