Journey to Petra

This morning you drive to Madaba, famous for its 6th century mosaics. Just beyond is the biblical site of Mount Nebo, which overlooks the Jordan Valley. This is, the Bible tells us, the final resting-place of Moses. From here he looked out onto the Promised Land, and thousands of years later you’ll do the same. You’ll then set off southward, where just ahead is a huge crack in the earth, 1,000 metres deep and with spectacular views over Wadi Mujib.

You’ll drive down one side and up the other before arriving at the small town of Kerak, whose formidable Crusader castle overlooks a long, winding road down to the Dead Sea. The Crusaders had a huge impact on the region in the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries, when they fought the forces of Islam in a long and bloody campaign that saw many atrocities committed.

Their temporary successes can be attributed - at least in part - to an outstanding ability to construct impregnable defensive fortifications, of which Kerak Castle is a prime example. Amazingly - given that it is over 850 years old - a great deal of the structure remains intact, and you can explore the dungeons, passages, refectory and kitchens of the castle, which also houses a small museum.

After visiting Kerak you continue along the King's Highway, the road winding as it follows the contours of the rocky hills. Occasionally you pass nomadic shepherds as they tend their flocks in the few areas where there is water; the land can be quite unforgiving. Your journey takes you across the deep gorge of Wadi al-Hesa, of similar proportions to Mujib. Turning west off the King’s Highway, you travel for about two hours to your next destination - the recently developed nature reserve at Dana. The reserve aims to protect some of Jordan's endangered species, including ibex, mountain gazelle, wolf and red fox. As well as conserving wildlife, Dana has also managed to preserve the timeless traditions still practised in its village. You will travel to the lodge by 4WD. Lodge - 1 night (BD)

Feynan Lodge - this is an award winning eco lodge located within the Dana Nature Reserve, is lit only by candlelight creating a wonderful atmosphere.

Today you’ll make your way into the fabled site, taking the same path followed by Burckhardt, which takes you through the banded rock walls that tower above. At the end of the kilometre-long path, you are rewarded by a glimpse of the most beautiful building of all - the Khazneh or Treasury - so-called because the Bedouin believed that the urn crowning the façade held a cache of gold and jewels. The first sight of this perfectly proportioned tomb, carved from solid rock, is truly unforgettable, but there's much more to come!

Some 2,400 years ago the Nabataeans taxed the trade caravans that plied between southern Arabia and the shores of the eastern Mediterranean and, using the proceeds, built the first houses and temples here. Later these taxes proved even more rewarding, and today the Nabatean legacy includes houses, tombs, temples, a Roman-built amphitheatre and much more.

It is well-worth making the hour or so ascent up the rocky path, which leads to ed-Deir, the Monastery, a vast structure rivalling even the Treasury in size and grandeur. Time may also allow you to climb to one of the High Places - the mountaintop altars where ritual sacrifices were made; from here there are spectacular views of the mountains, valleys and canyons below. (B)

NB - Watch out for donkeys on the walk up to the Monastery, they can be quite pushy so take care.

This morning you journey south for 145km (two hours) to Wadi Rum, initially passing through highland plateau, then descending into the dramatic, rocky landscape of southern Jordan. Taking to the desert road, you pass through scenery that seems ever more impressive, before arriving at the little Bedouin settlement of Rum.

As you explore you will undoubtedly see the black beit ash shar tents of the hardy Bedouin who still wander throughout the Middle East as they have for centuries. Moving between the few grazing spots which dot the parched landscape, they survive by breeding goats, sheep and camels, which are then sold at local markets. Although the traditional nomadic way of life is starting to disappear as some Bedouin succumb to the lure of fixed accommodation, many adhere stolidly to the old way - albeit with the occasional addition of a 4WD vehicle for transport! Living in such a hostile environment taught them long ago the importance of a friendly welcome and the ancient code of hospitality to travellers still survives.

There is plenty of time to explore the wadi, which offers some of the most extraordinary desert scenery in the world. From a distance, Wadi Rum's sheer sandstone cliffs appear to hover like a shimmering mirage on the horizon. It's only from close quarters that one can fully appreciate just how large some are, rising to a height of over 1,800m. Be captivated by the same scenery that had Lawrence of Arabia smitten! To the Howeitat Bedouin, who have taken it as their own, the area is known as the Valley of the Moon. These people are reputedly descended from Lawrence's Arab army who marched with him from Azraq in the north, then stayed behind once battle was done.

There is an array of ancient rock art to see, inscribed by Thamud nomads from Saudi Arabia, as well as the famous fort where members of the Desert Patrol guard Jordan's desert approach in an attempt to prevent cross-border smuggling. During your jeep adventure, you’ll stop many times to climb hills and to enter narrow siqs where Nabatean inscriptions can be found.

Set in the Wadi Disi area, a short distance from the entrance to the Wadi Rum protected area, you camp in true desert fashion tonight - sleeping in a traditional Bedouin tent, made comfortable for overseas travellers! As the sun sets on the rocky outcrops an astonishing transformation takes place - the sandstone passes through a spectrum of colours; yellow, gold, orange, red and, finally, purple, as the shadows lengthen and the stars come out. Bedouin-style camp (communal sleeping arrangement) - 1 night (BD)

Private Captain Bedouin Camp in the desert - This authentic bedouin camp set up in the desert is a great opportunity to experience the traditional desert life, with evening fire and peace and quite in a private dunes to enjoy the Milky Way, satellites and shooting stars across a perfec tly clear sky.