Jordan, the Jewel of the Middle East

Jordan for me was always associated with ‘Petra’; the Wonder of the World, high on my list of ‘must be seen’. But nothing prepared me to discover such a rich and diverse country with unexpected highlights that would take my breath away.

Following in the steps of Moses on the holy land, seeing from Mt Nebo the green oasis surrounded by dryness where Moses used his walking stick and miraculously found water, discovering the oldest mosaic map of the biblical countries on the floor of a lovely old church in Madaba was like experiencing a pilgrimage into religious history.

A more recent part of the history, Kerak castle, one of the largest crusader castles in the Levant was a rewarding experience. It displays a mixture of European, Byzantine, and Arab designs, and during the Ottoman period it played an important role due to its strategic location on the crossroads between Arabia, Egypt and Greater Syria.

When we then reached Dana, it was getting dark already so waking up the next morning was quite a surprise having found that we’d stayed right on the edge of the canyon with a stunning view of the surrounding valley.

We then explored this picturesque Ottoman village sitting in the mountains within the Dana Reserve, walking around field terraces and fruit trees surrounded by donkeys and playful children. Spending some time meeting friendly and welcoming locals, learning about the eco-system and the silver jewellery making, we also had the chance to taste the delicious home-made dry fruit jam from the local factory. Mmm, a real feast!

The next step was Little Petra and already an incredible experience. It is literally hidden away in the centre of a mountain. The entrance to Al Beidha contains a small siq (crack in the rock) through which visitors must pass. With it characteristic unusual rock shape, it also contains a number of notable tombs, dining areas with benches and a sophisticated system for supplying water. This was a perfect introduction to the main site, away from the tourist crowd, with great photo opportunities.

Getting to the main Petra monument; The Thesaury, was quite an adventure walking through a labyrinth path with new rock formation sculptures. The unique designs surprised us at every corner as we walked through the siqs until the moment of truth... Suddenly right in front of us, like a vision, stood like a giant, the Thesaury monument. It truly made me feel like Indiana Jones, discovering an incredible archeological treasure. Then we continued onto an open area with many more fortresses, caves, camels and donkeys. Only after the big ascent up the 900 steps, we reached the day’s reward; Petra’s Monastery and the breath-taking view over the valley and canyons. A cherished moment which made me feel very close to the Gods…

Wadi Rum desert. The Seven Columns of Wisdom. We are now on the route of T E Lawrence, also known as Lawrence of Arabia. It is a unique experience of the Bedouin desert life. From camel-back, to jeep, or on foot, each step took us further into the spectacular sand dunes and rocks for an incredible sunset. In the evening we sat around the fire under the stars after a delicious traditional dinner, joined by Bedouin men playing music and singing. They shared with us their local tea and freshly roasted coffee under the fire, and began smoking their famous fruit-flavoured Hubbly Bubbly Sheesha. It was also a chance for us to practice belly-dancing, or try the ‘Ululation’ singing just like the Arabic ladies during rituals and ceremonies (a long, wavering, high-pitched vocal sound resembling a howl). Sat under the light of one thousand stars, this should warm your heart enough to survive the cold nights of the desert.

Aqaba, is the coastal city in the far South of Jordan. Here we could reach the Red Sea with its crystalline water and incredible marine life and coral reef. Also strategically located at the border with Israel, Palestine and Saudi Arabia, we were surprised to actually spot all theses countries from the coast. An economic zone, Aqaba is a duty free land, so also great for shopping!

The Dead Sea, was something very unique to experience. Floating in this salty mass, the lowest sea on earth at 423m below sea level, is something not to be missed. Fancy a mud mask? Need a skin scrub? The Dead Sea is also famous for its curative properties against skin diseases. Here is one of the world's first health resorts, as the salt and the minerals from the Dead Sea are used to create cosmetics and herbal sachets. So technically swimming there is like going into a giant Thalassotherapy, but much more affordable and 100% natural.

What also really surprised me in Jordan is that for a Middle East country, we always felt extremely safe. English was widely spoken, and the overall standard of transport, hotels, and food was very high.
The king Hossein and his son are very well respected and loved by the Jordanian people, and the country is considered to be the Switzerland of the Middle East for being always at peace and neutral to its neighbour’s conflicts.

The hospitality and warmth of the Jordanians towards their visitors was wonderful. Always welcoming us into their homes for tea, juice and sweets, and making us feel comfortable, was what made this trip so special to me. Being able to interact with them and discuss culture, history, religion, politics, food, and life in general was fascinating and inspiring, and I can guarantee this will not be my ‘Last Crusade’ to Jordan.

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Mt Nebo holy land